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Thanks for the replies, on the php debug stuff too.
Well, I overwrote /modules/system//templates/system_userinfo.html, the same result. So then I tried overwriting /userinfo.php to see if that would make a difference. No change.
I'm not using any custom templates, besides the login block I modified from the original to remove the "register now" and "lost password" links.
I also have a fresh install on another domain, using everything default, and still I have the same problem.
Any other ideas?